็ด ่ ยท momiji season
Japan2026
Chad & TessaยทSep 26 โ Oct 10
๐ค๏ธๆฅๆฌJapan right nowยท--:-- in Japanยท
until wheels up
the route
Trip at a glance
city guide
Tokyo
ๆฑไบฌTลkyล
Ultra-modern neon meets Edo-era tradition
Japan's capital and the centre of the world's largest metropolitan area. It grew from the fishing village of Edo, became the shogun's seat in 1603, and was renamed Tokyo when it became the imperial capital in 1868.
Population
- 14.25 million
- Tokyo Metropolis
- May 2025
- 9.73 million
- 23 special wards
- Jan 2025
- โ 37 million
- Greater Tokyo
- metro area
Notable landmarks
- โฉ๏ธSenso-ji, Asakusa. Tokyo's oldest temple (founded 645), reached through the Kaminarimon gate and the Nakamise shopping street.
- ๐Tsukiji Outer Market. Food stalls, knife shops and tamagoyaki stands around the old fish-market site, a short walk from our hotel.
- ๐ฆShibuya Crossing & Shibuya Sky. The famous scramble crossing, with a rooftop observation deck looking down on it.
- ๐ฒMeiji Jingu. A shrine to Emperor Meiji hidden in a forest of 100,000+ donated trees beside Harajuku.
- ๐ผTokyo Skytree. At 634 m, Japan's tallest structure and the tallest tower in the world.
- ๐ฏImperial Palace East Gardens. The grounds of the former Edo Castle, free to walk through.
Regional cuisine
- ๐ฃEdomae sushi. Tokyo's signature: nigiri that began in Edo, using fresh bay fish cured or lightly marinated.
- ๐คTempura. An Edo-era street snack, crisp and light. Often served over rice as tendon.
- ๐ฅMonjayaki. Runny griddle batter scraped up with tiny spatulas. Try Tsukishima's Monja Street, close to Tsukiji.
- ๐Tokyo shoyu ramen. The classic style: clear soy-sauce broth with thin, curly noodles.
- ๐ฅขEdo-style soba. Buckwheat noodles, usually served cold on a bamboo tray with a dipping sauce.
On our trip
Sep 27 โ Oct 1 ยท Oct 9 โ Oct 10
Tokyo bookends the trip: we land at Narita on Sep 27 and fly home from here on Oct 10.
๐จ Staying at Tosei Hotel Cocone Tsukiji Ginza Premier ยท Ginza Capital Hotel Moegi
city guide
Kyoto
ไบฌ้ฝKyลto
Japan's capital for over a thousand years
The imperial capital from 794 to 1868. Kyoto escaped the wartime bombing that hit most big Japanese cities, so its temples, wooden machiya townhouses and geisha districts are still standing. It has 17 UNESCO World Heritage components.
Population
- 1.46 million
- Kyoto city
- 2020 census
Notable landmarks
- โฉ๏ธFushimi Inari Taisha. Thousands of vermilion torii gates climbing a forested mountain. Best early morning, and it never closes.
- ๐ฏKiyomizu-dera. A wooden stage jutting out over the hillside, at the top of the old Higashiyama streets near our hotel.
- โจKinkaku-ji. The Golden Pavilion, covered in gold leaf and mirrored in its pond.
- ๐Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. A towering bamboo path, with Tenryu-ji temple and the river close by.
- ๐ฎGion & Hanami-koji. The historic geisha district of wooden teahouses. Evenings are best for a chance of spotting a geiko.
- ๐๏ธNishiki Market. A covered lane of pickles, tofu, skewers and sweets known as 'Kyoto's Kitchen'.
Regional cuisine
- ๐ฑKaiseki. The multi-course haute cuisine of Kyoto, built around seasonality and presentation.
- ๐ฅObanzai. Kyoto home cooking: small plates of seasonal vegetables, tofu and pickles.
- ๐ฒYudofu. Tofu simmered gently in kombu broth, a temple-cooking classic.
- ๐ตMatcha & wagashi. Powdered green tea from nearby Uji with delicate seasonal sweets.
- ๐Nishin soba. Buckwheat noodles topped with sweet-simmered herring, a Kyoto original.
On our trip
Oct 1 โ Oct 3
We arrive by shinkansen on Oct 1 and visit teamLab Biovortex on Oct 2 (10:00 entry).
๐จ Staying at Apartment Hotel 11 Yasaka
city guide
Osaka
ๅคง้ชลsaka
Japan's kitchen. Eat until you drop.
The merchant capital of Japan, nicknamed 'the nation's kitchen'. Locals live by kuidaore, 'eat until you drop', and Osaka has a reputation for being friendlier and funnier than Tokyo.
Population
- 2.75 million
- Osaka city
- 2020 census
Notable landmarks
- ๐ฏOsaka Castle. The keep sits inside moats and huge parkland. The original was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1583.
- ๐Dotonbori. Neon-lit canal street with the Glico Running Man sign. Our hotel is a few minutes' walk away.
- ๐ผShinsekai & Tsutenkaku. A retro, slightly scruffy district under a 1950s tower, and the home of kushikatsu.
- ๐Umeda Sky Building. Twin towers joined at the top by the Floating Garden Observatory, great at sunset.
- ๐Kuromon Ichiba Market. Fresh seafood, skewers and street snacks in a long covered market.
- โฉ๏ธSumiyoshi Taisha. One of Japan's oldest shrines, with a steeply arched red bridge.
Regional cuisine
- ๐Takoyaki. Octopus-filled batter balls, crisp outside and molten inside, born in Osaka.
- ๐ฅOkonomiyaki. Osaka-style savoury pancake with the cabbage mixed straight into the batter.
- ๐ขKushikatsu. Deep-fried skewers dipped in a shared sauce. Never double-dip!
- ๐Kitsune udon. Thick udon in a light dashi broth with sweet fried tofu, an Osaka classic.
- ๐ฃBattera (oshizushi). Osaka's pressed box sushi, traditionally with marinated mackerel.
On our trip
Oct 3 โ Oct 5
Oct 3 is the commuter-train hop from Kyoto (no booking needed), then two nights based near Dotonbori.
๐จ Staying at KOKO HOTEL Osaka Namba Sennichimae
city guide
Okinawa
ๆฒ็ธOkinawa
Japan's subtropical island chain
The Ryukyu Kingdom ruled these islands for about 450 years before Japan annexed them in 1879, so the language, music, food and architecture feel distinct from the mainland. Okinawa is famous for long lifespans and is one of the world's 'Blue Zones'.
Population
- 1.47 million
- Okinawa Prefecture
- Oct 2025
- 313,000
- Naha (capital)
- 2025
- 892
- Zamami village
- 2020 ยท island itself about 600
Notable landmarks
- ๐ฏShuri Castle, Naha. The Ryukyu Kingdom's royal palace on a hill above Naha. The main hall burned in 2019 and has been under reconstruction.
- ๐๏ธKokusai-dori. Naha's lively 1.6 km main street of shops, snack stalls and awamori bars.
- ๐Makishi Public Market. Buy fish downstairs, then take it upstairs to have it cooked for you.
- ๐บTsuboya Yachimun Street. A lane of pottery workshops and shisa lion-dog guardians.
- ๐Naminoue Shrine. A cliff-top shrine above Naha's beach and the sea.
- ๐ขZamami & the Kerama Islands. The famous 'Kerama blue' water, coral, and sea turtles about 2 hours by ferry from Naha.
Regional cuisine
- ๐Okinawa soba. Chewy wheat noodles (no buckwheat) in pork-and-bonito broth, topped with soki ribs.
- ๐ฅGoya champuru. A stir-fry of bitter melon, tofu, egg and pork, the everyday Okinawan dish.
- ๐Rafute. Pork belly slow-braised in awamori and brown sugar until it melts.
- ๐ฟUmi-budo. 'Sea grapes': tiny bubbles of seaweed that pop in your mouth.
- ๐ฎTaco rice. Taco fillings over rice, an Okinawan invention from the US-base era.
On our trip
Oct 5 โ Oct 9
Oct 5 is the flight in from Osaka. Oct 6โ8 we take the ferry out to Zamami Island, with a SUP & snorkel tour on Oct 7.
Try an awamori (local rice spirit) or an Orion beer with dinner.
๐จ Staying at Nest Hotel Naha Nishi ยท Guesthouse Iyonchi
explore
Everything, in one place
Itinerary
Every day, city by city.
Openโโ๏ธFlights
All four legs and confirmation codes.
Openโ๐จHotels
Check-in to check-out, with maps.
Openโ๐ทPhotos
The gallery, as it fills up.
Openโ๐Follow along
Live location, journal, and stories.
Openโ๐กSuggest a spot
Been to Japan? Tell us where to go.
Openโstill loose
Still being planned
Tessa's Visit Japan Web QR
Chad's immigration/customs QR is saved. Tessa's still needs to be generated.
Return boarding passes (WS 81, Oct 10)
Available once online check-in opens for the flight home.